Esxence, The Spirit of Niche Perfume

Posted by
Sarah Colton
 March 18, 2015


Following the enthusiastic response to my February 17, 2015 ‘Pre-Esxence’ post, in which François Duquesne, CEO of Beauty Entreprise dubbed Esxence ‘The Sundance of Artistic Niche Fragrances, I thought it was only fair to let my other niche perfume friends chime in on their thoughts about Esxence. So, I contacted a bunch of people – brand owners, perfumers, retailers, agents, distributors, reps, sales managers, and a line-up of free-electrons. I was amazed by the volume and enthusiasm of their response.


Fundamental points of what they say:

  • * Esxence is the essential artistic niche trade show in the world for making             professional and personal contacts on a global scale.
  • * Some of the hottest new niche fragrances of 2015 will be launched at Esxence.
  • * Esxence has an abiding ambiance of joy, generosity, and positive energy.
  • * Many, many thanks to Silvio Lévi, for making it all happen.


Esxence is like one giant four-day niche fragrance cocktail party where some of the most imaginative people on the planet get high on perfume – and on each other. (Oh, yes, and really work HARD!). But don’t listen to me, listen to the people of Esxence. They are the voice and spirit of niche perfume!


With Esxence only a week away, there’s only one thing to do if you’re not already on your way:  Get yourself a ticket – fast!


                          Esxence, The Scent of Excellence 6th Edition


When: Thursday, March 26, through Sunday, March 29, 2015.

Where: The Mall, the heart of the new Skyline of Milan, in the Porta Nuova Events District.


And while your booking your travel arrangements — listen to the voice and spirit of niche perfume….


Anne-Sophie Behaghel and Amélie Bourgeois, the dynamic perfumer team at Flair Paris.

“We love the effervescence of the Esxence and its Italian charm, and look forward to meeting old and new brand partners. That’s what we did in 213 and 2014, and we have many new fragrances at Esxence 2015 to show for it. Brands include: Jovoy, Le Galion, Nobile, Mendittorosa, Une Nuit à Bali, Room 1015, Evody, Parfums d’Orsay, and Alexandre.J.”


Nicolas Chabot, CEO, Le Galion Parfums.

“Esxence is a particular moment in the life of a niche perfume brand. The moment when the curtains open at an opéra and start the launch of all the years to come. It’s also such a nice time to share, to give and to receive the comments and the passion of all fragrance lovers.

This year the Maison Le Galion will introduce our new fragrance series composed of the re-edition of ‘Vetyver’, an iconic fragrance created in the late 60’s, and of new creations embodying the spirit of the brand today, all composed by a talented new generation of perfumers…. Can’t wait to share this!”


Vanina Muracciole, up and coming Independent Perfumer, Paris.

“What I love about Esxence is the warm and friendly atmosphere in a refined setting that transports participants to the artistic dimension of this industry. Meeting new people, the birth of new ideas, new projects. And of course, an Italian ambiance. I’m looking forward to presenting two new fragrances for Le Galion, ‘Le Cuir’ and ‘Aesthete’. I also have some ‘avant-premières’ that only certain people can smell….”


Neela Vermeire, Owner and Creative Director, Neela Vermeire Creations SAS.

“Esxence is about meeting clients, current and future brand ambassadors, and all our fragrance friends. This year we are presenting a new fragrance, ‘Pichola’, inspired by Lake Pichola in Udaipur, Rajasthan — a new twist to our existing range of India-inspired French haute parfumerie fragrances, ‘Trayee’, ‘Mohur’, ‘Bombay Bling’ and ‘Ashoka’, all created by independent perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour.”


Michael Edwards, Perfume expert and author, Fragrances of the World 2015 The Fragrance Bible ®, (31st Annual Edition now available).

“Can you think of any other event that lets one keep track of so many artisan fragrances? In 4 days I smell the world ! ”


Philip Hillege, Co-Owner, Skins Cosmetics (10 shops in the Netherlands and Ibiza City). 

“For me Esxence is the most important worldwide event for Artisan perfume brands where I can meet the brand owners and lots of other people from the industry important for my network. The fair is very professionally organized as well.”


Chi Wai Tang, Co-Founder, The 13th Note, China.

“Esxence is a family reunion for all artisan perfume lovers. It is the best platform for perfumeries, perfumers, distributors, retailers, fragrance lovers and consumers to communicate and interactive with each other.  Make new friends and discover new brands in every edition. This is the show you cannot afford to miss!”


Rossella Caputo, International Sales Manager For Brands: Peccato Originale,  The Vagabond PrinceUNUM, and Rubini.

“I LOVE the excitement of it all!  It’s all about the PEOPLE: building wonderful long-term relationships…and SMELLING…of course.  Meeting old friends and colleagues, passionate customers, and brand new ones, people you are friends with on Facebook, but most of the time live far away….which are, or will become, very important elements of our personal and business lives.”


Etienne de Swardt, Founder, Etat Libre d’Orange.

“I don’t know what we will achieve but I still believe in God and I do love the shape of their legs, killing softly with their stiletto and the way they dress and charmed. Dangerous Italian Venus, Assassine, here is the true reason to visit Milano. Our business is pleasure then we go to Esxence and lose ourselves sniffing their hair and begging for a kiss …… Rapture and dance like a dervish to boost the traffic on the booth. I will make a formidable naked cowboy!”


Jean-Claude MAGRET, Owner, J.C.M  STUDIO, Paris.

“What do I love most about Esxence? The Profusion of Talents!

I cannot help quoting Oscar Wilde in saying, “Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess.”


Prudence Kilgour, Owner and Creative Director, Prudence Paris.

“Esxence is international, inspirational, exclusive! A discerning family that encourages individual excellence. The heart and soul of true Niche. To celebrate the 10th Anniversary of Prudence Paris we are launching ‘Collection Royale’ an authentic synthesis of the designer and perfumer’s art, enhancing our established collection.”


Patricia de Nicolai, Perfumer and Owner of NICOLAÏ, Parfumeur-Créateur.

“What I love about Esxence is that it’s very professional while at the same time very relaxed. It’s a once a year chance to meet and chat with colleagues and competitors and see what everybody is doing. Esxence attracts buyers from around the world, making it an essential fair for niche fragrances for whom exporting is increasingly important. This year I hope to strengthen my existing foreign contacts and meet new ones.”


Cécile Zarokian, the independent and highly gifted perfumer and owner of CECILE ZAROKIAN SARL.

Cécile has created fragrances for brands such as, Xerjoff, Jul et Mad, MDCI, Masque Fragranze, Hayari, Jovoy, and Amouage. “For me Esxence is an opportunity to visit with established and potential clients, as well as journalists, bloggers, and other partners from around the world.”


François Hénin, Owner, Jovoy Parfums Rares, Paris.

“Esxence is the most important meeting of the year for luxury niche perfumery. As the saying goes, “information is the sinews of war”, and Esxence is the best place to get a good idea of what will come up in the next months. This year I will be showing the first new extracts of the Jovoy perfume brand, as well as a secret project, that only my partners will see. I already have some feedback from the market on these launches, but meeting everybody at Esxence will tell me more about our potential.

Milan is also an important city for a vital market, so my Italian distribution partner, Essenses, of Luca Falchetti, is organizing a presentation of FLAIR’s perfumers’ work for Jovoy on Friday at 6pm at Il Profumo, via brera 6, a famous perfume store in Milano. It’s an Esxence ‘extra curricula’ event you won’t want to miss!”


Bayly Ledes, President, Robert Piguet Parfums, Paris.

“The incredible success of Esxence is due to Silvio’s commitment to the quality of the presentation space and top level coordinators. Each brand is given the tools it needs to showcase their products and news. There is simply no better forum to feature niche, luxury fragrances. Robert Piguet Parfums is especially excited to be at Esxence this year to share the news about our new fragrance, V. Intense (Firmenich perfumer Aurélian Guichard) as well as our elegant new 50 ml Parfums.”


Roja Dove, Master Perfumer, London.

“Esxence is one of the most important perfumery fairs in the world. It plays a pivotal role in bringing everybody of significance in the industry together – resulting in a hub of creativity. What’s great about it is that is exposes people to everything that is new and great in this ‘niche’ selective area of perfumery. What I find invaluable at Esxence are the thought-provoking discussions that happen here – I realise I am not alone in the quest for authenticity and legitimacy in fragrance. Thank you Esxence.”


Karen V. Marin, Business Development Manager, Parfums Givenchy.

“Esxence is such a motivating event as it brings together people from all over the world who are passionate about fragrance! I’m looking forward to the exchange of ideas at the panel discussion I’m chairing on Business Threats & Opportunities for Artisanal Perfumery!!”


Wouter Wiels, Belgian Trend watcher and Trendsetter, Founder of the Annual Paris Rives de la Beauté event.

“The Esxencial Spring fragrance experience, if you ask me… A wonderful opportunity to revisit the quality perfume professionals after the winter season.”


Mindy Yang, Vice President and Curator, MiN New York.

“A gathering place for so many fellow artists, I look forward to inspire and be inspired by old and new friends at Esxence.”


Dr. Bodo Kubartz, Managing Director, Passion and Consulting.

“Esxence is an international hub for novel and established artistic perfume brands. Being in Milan enables me to learn, trade industry insights, and examine new trends and market developments. A great opportunity to delve into the global scene of prescious perfume.”


Puredistance Master Perfumes, the Netherlands.

This from the team of Mary Gooding, Communications & Public Relations

Nele Tammiste, International Sales Manager, and Iris Vos, Creative Multimedia.

“We are excited that the official launch of our new fragrance ‘White’ (perfumer Antoine Lie) will be made during Esxence 2015! Visit us at our stand to take one of the first sniffs of ‘White’, our ‘dream in white and gold’ – and if you like it, a warm and natural happiness will be yours!”


And speaking of Antoine Lie, a gifted and forward thinking (Takasago) perfumer, well known for his niche fragrance creations for brands such as, Etat Libre d’Orange, Comme des Garcons, and Nu_Be Perfume, as well as mainstream brands, notably, Armani Code (co-created with Antoine Maisondieu). “For me Esxence is a ‘think tank’ for fragrances where there is no limit or restriction. It’s the temple of the new age where real perfume lovers can find their dreams Regrettably, I won’t be participating this year at Esxence due to a conflicting commitment, and I will miss walking through the different places and smelling all these crazy fragrances which have given me inspiration for my work in the past. At least two of my most recent fragrances will be launched there, however, Puredistance ‘White’, and another by Histoires de Parfums.”


Céline Verleure, Founder and Creative Director, Olfactive Studio, Paris.

“Esxence is the only annual fair where brands have their own stands, so it’s the perfect occasion to meet all the European distributors (east and west) as well as increasingly large numbers of distributors from the Middle East. Because of this I will be presenting my new perfume, ‘Panorama’ (IFF perfumer Clement Gavarry) at Esxence, as well as at an event at Corso Como 10, on Friday evening.”


Kathryn Malley, General Manager, Lafferty’s, Germany.

“Esxence gives a good overview and well chosen selection of newcomers and links suppliers, distributors, clients and press in a professional way in a warm and trustful atmosphere.”


Anaïs Biguine, founder, Jardins d’Ecrivains, Paris.

“Esxence is an essential rendez-vous for niche perfumery, and probably the best salon in the world. It’s the chance for all the brands to receive their clients, present their news, and make wonderful connections, all at their own stands. And there’s an abiding ambiance of joy, generosity, and positive energy. Clearly, everybody is happy to be there!”


Nicolas Cloutier, CEO, NOSE perfume shop, Paris.

“What do I love the most about Esxence? Esxence is like a big family get together where you can catch up. What do I expect to accomplish at Esxence this year? Try to find the next best party evening in Milan. Romano [Ricci] might have a clue!”


Sarah Blair, Co-founder, Map of the Heart, Australia.

“I came to Esxence for the first time two years ago, accompanied by our bottle designer, the legendary Pierre Dinand, in preparation for launching our brand. I found the experience to be a wonderful snapshot on this intriguing world of niche perfumery. And now I am coming as an exhibitor. I hope to keep on the path of introducing Map of the Heart, as well as engaging with other exhibitors and feeling part of the niche perfumery community. It is invaluable to be able to have contact with all levels of the market, distributors, stores, press and the public. From each of them we learn so much.”


Lorna McKay, Co-Founder, The Perfume Society, London.

“I hope to be excited by existing brands pushing the boundaries, new brands showcasing their creations, and be encouraged that like-minded people can exchange views and opinions in the seminars whilst remembering that customer communication is King.”


Giselle Richardson, Owner, Barfumeria Retail, S.L, Madrid.

“I like the energy and creativity that one experiences at Esxence. I also like reconnecting with all the great talented people in the industry. I’m always looking to find a new and exciting line of fragrances.”


Julian F. Bedel, Perfumer & Founder, Fueguia 1833 Laboratorio de perfumes, Argentina.

“Esxence is the perfect gathering in Milan and one of the highlights of our perfume community, a moment of the year which I look forward to see friends, partners, and learn about their latest projects. This year coincides with the Milan Expo where we could also have the excuse to pair perfumes with the best food on earth!”


Helder Suffenplan, Trendwatcher and Trendsetter, Founder and Editor of SC E N T U R Y, Berlin.

“What I love the most about Esxence is having the whole niche fragrance community in one place! On my list of accomplishments this year are to catch up with the other perfume nerds, discover new exciting brands, interview some crazy characters for Scentury – drink champagne with Sarah Colton ! ”




  1. marie woodard |

    Always enjoy reading your blog. Thanks for posting.

    • sarah Colton |

      All this creative and edgy niche stuff — perfume, art, music — is right up your alley, Marie. Maybe you’ll come next year. Meanwhile, I’ll do my best to bring it alive for you.

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